Goodfilla Neutral Base, 8 oz, Wood and Grain Filler, Stainable, Tintable, Sandable, Zero Waste, Non-Toxic, USA Made

Good stuff, work as expected. I used it to fill the glue gap for a white oak butcher top.

Finally a wood filler that’s easy to apply, dries fast and doesn’t shrink. I love it!

The product itself is fine. Getting the lid off is a real challenge. There is a ring around the container with the lid over that. The lid is smaller than the ring and you will need a screwdriver or another type of flat bar to get the top off. Trying to use your finger or fingernails is not going to work unless your fingernails are long in which case you will probably break them trying to open the top.

This is a great product if you know how to use it and know what it can be used for. A lot of people have given negative reviews because: 1. Mixing it 1:1 creates a watery mess / it's too difficult to work with. - I personally think using 1:1 water to filler ratio as a starting point is too aggressive. You only want to add enough water so that it can be worked around. It should end up looking/feeling like mud. And I personally prefer it just a tad bit drier (it gives you less time to spread it around before it dries, but I find it easier to work with). Don't try to mix/use the whole bottle at once. If you haven't used it before start with a glob and add some water. If you use too much water, add some more filler until you get the consistency right. It's easier to add water than it is to wait for the mixture to dry out if you've added too much. - Don't use a rag to spread it around. It's way easier to spread around and provide sufficient pressure to force the filler down into the grain if you use a plastic squeegee (a credit card also works). I personally think it's easier to work with this way if your consistency is a bit off as well. 2. It doesn't create a uniform surface / disintegrates, breaks off, or erodes away. - This is not wood *putty*. This is wood filler. They are two different things. Putty is more like playdough and is meant to be formed into the wood more like such. Wood filler is far more viscous than putty; it's meant to fit into/in between the grain. If you're trying to fill a gouge you need to look for putty. The first review on here with the pictures of the repaired chair is astonishing. I have no idea how that person even managed that, but I can guarantee you that sort of repair work will NOT stand the test of time with this product (or even putty for that matter) unless you plan on keeping whatever it is you're repairing in a glass case. If your furniture is that damaged, your best bet is going to be an epoxy filler. Hopefully these tips can help. If anyone is wanting more details on how to use either water-based or oil-based fillers and/or how to incorporate either of these with various types of finishes I would highly recommend "How to Understand Wood Finishing : How to Select and Apply the Right Finish" by Bob Flexner; this book is the alpha and omega of finishing.

I use this for small gaps between the planks in my hardwood floor and to correct small dents and splintering on small woodworking projects. I'm a complete novice and just watch YouTube videos to figure out WTF I am doing and have generally very limited patience and just want my projects done. Anyway, that's exactly why this product is great - for the small gaps I have used this product to fill, it does the job. It dries in maybe 15 minutes - I haven't actually timed it, but I usually apply some on the damaged area, leave for a while, then come back and sand it down smooth before covering with my stain or topcoat or whatever. It sands perfectly fine and I honestly can't tell the difference against my natural maple wood (which is the only wood I've used this on now that I think about it) unless I inspect it closely with a magnifying glass like inspector gadget or something, but again, I don't have time for that. A side note, I read some reviews saying the product doesn't dry or they have to leave it for 12 hours and it's still not dry. Well, you have to apply a thin layer, remove the excess, and use on smaller patch repair type projects - don't try and recreate an entire piece of wood or use this to replace a giant chunk out of a piece of wood and then act surprised when it doesn't dry in 15 minutes - it's not magic. You're going to need a resin filler or something for a project like that, not a water-based wood & grain filler...

I purchased 4 gallons of the Red Oak. 2 gallons arrived in great shape, product was smooth and easy to spread (consistency of peanut butter). Other 2 gallons were hard/dried out/impossible to use. I tried to mix one gallon 1:1 with water and let sit at room temp overnight. It did not soften up AT ALL, even when I tried to mix with a drill. Contacted Goodfilla's customer support and was told that I was SOL because their sample from their batch did not have any issues. Loved the 2 gallons of product that were the right consistency, the results were amazing. But given that half the product I purchased basically went to waste and that Goodfilla's customer support was the opposite of helpful, this experience was NOT a good one.

Im very new to woodworking. I made a table using oak for the legs and mahogany for the top. The oak legs were stained very dark almost black. I had a 2.5in piece of mahogany that is very dark and beautiful. At least I think so. The remaining boards are multiple shades lighter than this dark piece but still have attractive figure. I wanted to keep most of the natural color my mahogany had but add a very mild red tint. Secondly, I discovered mahogany has a pretty open pore structure so I wanted to fill the pores in to hopefully arrive at a smooth finish. I mixed about 2 Tbs filler to 4 Tbs water. After a quick stir with a stir stick, I arrived at a very liquid consistency like red water. I didn’t want to slather a thick paste on my work surface because I imagined the removal of a thick paste being a hassle. I applied the solution using a cheap foam brush covering the surface just enough to fill in the pores. I left this to dry for a few hours. Sorry I don’t remember how many hours but I did make certain the wood was completely dry. Lastly, I used 320 grit abrasive paper before applying the filler so I continued on with the 320 grit to remove the excess filler. I’d never made a coffee table, never used mahogany wood and never used a filler prior to this project. Having never used a filler, I have nothing to compare it to but I was very pleased with the ease of application, the color and the smooth texture after filling the pores. According to the directions, you can add stains, dyes etc to the product if you desire a different shade. Hope this helps you decide if this product is right for you.

Absolutely awesome product! Matched the wood grain and was so easy to apply to get rid of seam cracks between the wood planks in my floor. Simply press the putty into the cracks and wipe over with a damp paper towel. I’m really impressed!

This is a really great product. Does exactly what the company says it will do. I moved in to an older house where the much loved wood mantel had hundreds of pin holes I would assume for Christmas stockings etc. I very lightly sanded down the rough areas filled with the wood filler then a very lightly rub with a cloth. When dry painted the wood. Looks great no visible hole marks.

Fantastic stuff completely blends in after sanding you cant tell. Holds stain well

Has a great set up time. Enough time to spread it around & reasonable set up time. Gives that aged/old look to new wood.

Oh man, this stuff is awesome. Easy to work with. The color matching for my project was spot on. Clean up is a breeze. I sealed with an oil based sealer that matched the flooring finish. Super duper happy.

This stuff is a good filler but applied to cracks in shingles then primed and painted but it cracks and ruins the paint job. Don’t buy for exterior shingles.