8-in. Dia-Sharp Bench Stone

I've used this for sharpening dozens of kitchen knives, pocket knives, straight razors, chisels, and planes to great success and for a while it was my only stone. At 1200 grit, it puts a fine enough edge on a blade for most knives and a serviceable edge on chisels (and maybe planes depending on what you're using them for). You may want coarser grits if you have chips in the blade, as it will take quite a while to grind out anything large or even moderately sized, and you will definitely want coarser stones if you are reshaping a blade profile, changing edge angle, or flattening chisels or planes. Similarly, you may want a higher grit for refining edges; I leave some knives at this level but go up to 4000-8000 on some, and higher still on planes and straight razors.It has held up very well and after many years and hundreds of sharpenings it still works great. You may notice staining on the surface, especially after using it on non-stainless steels and the grit can sometimes get gummed up, presumably from skin cell or oils from your hands. Usually, dish soap will do a good job cleaning it, but when I notice that it's not cutting as well I will occasionally use Barkeeper's Friend to really get the surface clean. It's a pretty harsh cleaner though, so I try to keep that to a minimum to avoid shortening the life of the stone.The biggest drawback to this stone is that I do think the feedback from the surface could be better, especially if you're a beginner to bench stone sharpening. It was my first bench stone and it definitely took me a while before I felt really comfortable maintaining an angle, reliably achieving a burr, and not goofing up my blades. Fortunately it's hard to do much damage at 1200 grit, but I do think that starting with a slightly coarser (maybe 600-1000 grit) water stone and a very cheap or even thrift-store level knife would be a better way to learn bench stone sharpening.

Very good stone, grind fast and as it doesnt erode it is always flat. Size is good and feet prevents sliding. I prefer using with few deops of soapy water as it glides easier.

Used already for a year , sharpening chisels and plane blades. Flatness is good but not perfect. During sharpening, I'm using no more than a quarter of the space for each blade, to reduce the error. Already I have half of it, extra-extra fine. It worn out slowly, but I've noticed, this is also depends what type of steel is used to sharpen. The one brings the stone from fine to super extra fine was a chisel made by blade taken from benchtop electric planner, and I guess it was with high percentage of nickel in it. As a conclusion I can say it is most used sharpening diamond stone among 10 other diamond and natural stones and worn part now become the area for fine finish. Reading reviews for most DMD stone brands i can see that some customers just run into bad products due to poor manufacturer quality control. So if you are lucky you will have nice tool in your workshop.

I bought this instead of the Trend double sided (300/1000) I was initially shopping for because it's a lot less expensive, and I didn't think I would need a 300 grit that much. I've read you need to break them in, and decided to do it by sharpening a blade I didn't care about much. My Swiss Army pocket knife is the epitome of my belief that good steel rusts. It's stainless, and fine for what it is, but not fine cutlery. A little time on this, followed by a few strokes on a strop, and my cheap but handy knife is sharp enough to shave with. Not a great shave, but still..I also bought the extra-extra fine. No complaints there, either, but maybe not as useful. It amuses me that that one has a label to show the other side has the diamonds--both sides are so smooch, it's hard to tell by touch. Ultimately, I think I will buy a super fine ceramic stone, but I don't regret either of these DMT stones.When I turned to chisels, I soon realized the extra-fine is too slow for flattening the backs. I decided I needed a coarse, and/or fine, to start the flattening or grind out nicks. I decided to get both. Then I saw the Trend for a good deal less than it had been. Rob Cosman uses the Trend and a 16000 grit Shapton, and that looks like a good system, so I decided to spring for the Trend now, and maybe get the Shapton later. Probably should have done that to start with. Now I have the 300 grit I needed, plus the 1000 grit side, plus another 1000 in the DMT, plus the 8000 grit xx fine. Little bit inefficient on my part. That said, I may yet buy the coarse and fine DMT to make a set. After all, you can't have too many tools...Meanwhile, saving up for that Shapton. I am not mentally well.UPDATE: The more I use these, the better I like them. Tried them on a really good chisel. Takes patience with really hard steel, but results are worth it. Turns out that xx-fine is worth having, too.

For some reason I thought this was going to be a similar size to the 400 grit diamond sharpener I'd bought from Bunnings and love, but it turned out to be significantly larger. Easily large enough for all my plane blades. Diamond sharpeners are a joy to use after years using stones. They don't clog, and and keep on working. They also stay flat, which is a huge bonus as it is a royal PITA flattening stones. I found this Extra Fine sharpener a bit worrying to start with, as it was scratching my chisels, but after some use, it bedded in and works fine. I have since read advice to this affect on Rob Cosmans' YouTube channel. (Check him out btw. the best real world advice on sharpening I have come across, and I have watched a 'ton' of videos on the subject). It came out a bit expensive by the time it was converted to NZ dollars and postage was added, but I intend buying a larger grit DMT sharpener just for the size, so I must be happy with it.

I originally ordered the EZE LAP equivalent, the 81SF, for $50. The listing stated that it would show up in a couple weeks. I went back to check a week or so later, and the delivery date had been pushed back even further. Having experienced the wiles of the Scamazon before, I decided to check the listing again and it said that the product was unavailable and that they didn't know when it would be back. So I canceled my order and started shopping again.The obvious alternative was the DMT, and having owned other DMT products I figured the negative reviews we from people who just didn't know what they were doing. Out of the box the stone was very rough, as if about 1% of the abrasive particles were 10-100 times too big. Running a piece of steel across it sounded like I was dragging it on brushed concrete, no exaggeration. I was prepared for this and used a piece of scrap high-carbon steel to get to work on it. Initially the swarf was course enough to score the surface of the stone with very conspicuous scratches, but over the course of about 45 minutes, it got better and the sound/feel was much more like what a lap should be.While the sound/feel got better, the machining marks that were initially subtle were now very obvious, and rouge particles continued to cause deep scratches. Additionally, the stone felt much more like a slick chunk of steel than a lapping/sharpening stone; there just isn't nearly the amount of abrasive that one would expect on a diamond stone. And I have used a variety. This stone already cuts slower AND rougher than the competition of equal grit. The stone is also not flat. When checked against a Starrett straight edge, the face is concave by about 1/64" along it's length. Not a huge amount, but will definitely still cause potential issues if used on the backs of plane irons.I have experience with a friend's EZE LAP 71SF, and the difference is night and day. It is smooth, cuts extremely well, and has a liberal helping of abrasive. I will be going to an EZE LAP or maybe Atoma, but DMT is only getting my hand hone business from now on.

Is it weird to like the chore of sharpening? Used in combination with the fine grit (I have the inexpensive version with the open spaces, says Smith's but probably DMT) you get afantastic edge. In addition, I was using a 1000 grit stone, soaking it in water, etc. Now I go from the Smiths (600 grit) to the D8E (1200) to my 6000 grit stone (if needed), and it's a very smooth progression. I can get a fantastic edge.The real benefit of the DMT is actually the quick set up and clean up. Yes the surface is very effective at sharpening, and yes, it's extremely flat and can be used as the standard to judge all other flatness. But the simplicity of taking a knife to the garage, squirting a little water on the D8E, and then rubbing the knife back and forth, or making circles, or going in just one direction, or whatever you like while you think of all the fanatical opinions on which is the best way to do this. And after a little while, you have achieved "sharp". Wipe with a paper towel and you're done. Completely done.I could have sharpened a knife to easy tomato cutting in the time it took to read this.

This diamond sharpener is more than expected. Works great for all my carving knives and most of my chisels. It's a great tool to keep your knives sharp. Love it!

Simplesmente o pior produto americano que já vi na vida. Camada de diamante toda irregular, vem cheia de riscos, granulação errada (a 1200 é mais grossa que uma 1000 cerâmica, a 8000 é mais grossa que uma 6000 cerâmica) cheia de diamantes saltados. Não compre essa pedra, é dinheiro jogado fora, comprei a 1200 e 8000 e estou devolvendo as duas, não serve nem para nivelar outras pedras de tão ruim. Gaste seu dinheiro em algo que preste, compre uma shapton.

These are excellent. I have the course, fine and extra fine 8” Dia-Sharp stones/plates and use all 3. The course grit works well to redefine a beveled edge for a blade with light damage, chipping or dings. Once I’ve done 5-6 strokes on each side I switch to the fine grit stone and do the same. At this point the blade is sharp but not razor sharp. I switch to the extra fine stone to finish the edge and make it sharp enough to shave.Don’t over press or over sharpen. Steady medium pressure for 5 full strokes per side. Lubricate with windex rinse with water when done and store dry in open air wrapped in paper towel.Takes practice. Watch YouTube for details. It’s not hard with a little practice. Long knives are trickier than short ones. For everyday kitchen knives you only *need* the FINE stone. I only use the extra fine when I run out of things to sharpen. If you could only have one get the 8” FINE stone.

Great diamond sharpener

This is the best bit of sharpending kit I have ever bought. 8x3" size you can horne wide plane irons @90' and it's perfectley flat so makes it possable to lap a plane sole to a degree of accuracy beyond what is required. And it does produce a truely 'razer' sharp egde. Top quality, Very pleased, I recommend it.

Mine come with non-skid rubber feet. Everything is fine.