Kyoto Electric KF0602D DC-to-DC Solid State Relay, 32 Volt, DC Input, 2 Amp, 4-Pin, 1.4"L x 0.3"W x 0.9"H

I've had a bit of trouble with solid state relays in the past. I followed the wiring diagram that another fellow below suggested and it worked flawlessly. Could be I was never installing them properly. Perfect isolation, low input circuit loading. Who could ask for more?

I've provided a wiring schematic I found online of a similar ssr. I was having issues pinning it out, I'm not sure why maybe I'm just spoiled with diagrams. When I looked at the photo it made alot more sense and I wired it up that way, and the ssr worked flawlessly. I used this ssr to power pwm cpu fans to cool an audio amp. It gets super hot in the summer sitting in my truck and being used. I'd had a simular setup on the same amp in the past without speed control. This ssr is triggered by the remote input from the headunit, and passes voltage for my fan speed controller. This ssr is small enough I was able to fit everything inside the amp, which I did not expect, and it made the whole setup a lot cleaner in the end. It is overkill but works fine for what it is.

At first, I thought I received a defective unit until I realized that I had the load wires backwards. When this happens, the circuit remains closed, which is likely the reason why other reviewers experienced the same issue. Pin 4 needs to be connected to the positive end of the power source, while Pin 3 needs to be connected to the positive end of the load. In my case, it was a 48V ebike headlight. Once I had all of the connections properly wired, the relay worked perfectly. I want to mention that the product I received looks slightly different from what is advertised; however, for my particular application, it was still compact enough to fit inside my ebike's frame. I highly recommend this product for its compact size, durability, price point, and performance.

This relay was my savior! I was trying to replace the reverse buzzer in my Club Car with a relay so that I wouldn't have to listen to that obnoxious buzzer sound. But all the mechanical relays I tried - did not work. I think the coil was drawing too much current. So I tried this relay - and whoola! It worked! I had to add a few resistors to drop the input voltage from 48V to somewhere around 16V, but other than that - I'm very happy. One item to note is that when I was testing it out, I had my ohm meter connect to the NO contacts and it appeared that it was not working. There was no continuity when I applied input voltage. I'm not sure why, but it may have to do with the output circuit needing a larger voltage to actuate the NO contacts. All I can say is - its working and I'm very happy about that!

Inexpensive option for an arduino project. Size looked appropriate forvtge component. Functioned as expected. My project worked well.

The only important info: THESE DC-Rated SSRs WORK, and WORK WELL! Just remember to apply the + side of the "driving" power supply to terminal #4, the "positive" side of the load to terminal #3, and the "negative" side of the load to the Power Supply RETURN. For the CONTROL voltage, ensure the + side of the control voltage goes to terminal #1 and the - side of the control voltage to terminal #2. A USB cable is a PERFECT Control Voltage source (RED wire to terminal #1, BLACK wire to terminal #2). Finally, ensure the LOAD CURRENT through the relay (terminals 3 and 4) is a MINIMUM of 10 MILLIAMPS (approx.) to ensure conduction through the relay... I ** DO RECOMMEND ** these relays for switching loads up to 2 AMPS, 30 VOLTS ** MAXIMUM **.

Awesome

Hooked this thing up to a 6v input then ran a 48v through the 1 and 2 posts . The switch passed power ALL the time. No switching at all.