2L Manual Brake Bleeder Fluid Pump, One Man Professional Brake Bleeder Kit Suitable for Most Brake Mast Cylinder Reservoirs

As described. I am happy with my purchase.

I bought this to bleed the stupidly run factory clutch hydraulics on an MGB as it is the only reliable way to bleed that silly system. So the short is that the pressure bleeder works great. As long as you keep the MC topped off, you don't actually need to put any fluid in the pressure bleeder reservoir. It just takes a few pumps to re-pressurize the MC, and is cleaner. The time you spend there is not spent cleaning out the bleeder and hose assembly. However, there are details about the connections and adapters that are not clear when ordering one of these. The bleeder unit itself is exactly the same as the "ARES 70921-2-Liter Manual Brake Fluid Pressure Bleeder" but comes with the fluid recovery bottle and hose. In addition, it costs less. I ordered three different pressure bleeders because it was hard (or impossible) to tell which quick disconnect connector the bleeders were using. I ordered this one, the Ares, and the unit by OMT, the OMT unit being the lowest cost. Curiously, the connector on the OMT is not the one in the pictures of the: "OMT Master Cylinder Bleeder Kit, Brake Pressure Bleeder with 12 Master Cylinder Adapters..." That will fit, according to the pictures, the SmotivePro in this review and the Ares noted above. This quick release is the one with the end the same diameter as the rest of the barrel with a detent in between. The: "SMOTIVEPRO 12 pcs Brake Master Cylinder Bleeder Kit Professional Brake Bleeder Adapter Compatible with Most Brake Bleeder kit" shows a quick release fitting with a reduced diameter at the end. It is not the same fitting as comes on the SmotivePro or Ares bleeder. The fittings on those adapters appears correct for the: "Orion Motor Tech OMT Brake Pressure Bleeder, European Brake Bleeder with Hand Pump, 2.5L Pressure Brake Bleeder with Hose and European Adapter, Manual Brake Fluid Pressure Bleeder" All three bleeders appear to be functional. I chose to keep the SmotivePro unit as it was the best bang for the buck and is more stable than the OMT unit. The adapter that came with the kit fits the master cylinders I have on three of my six cars. It also fits on the clutch MC of another, but this is pointless as the master/slave system on that car is properly set up and gravity bleeds well. Another car has the same thread but the MC is too close to a panel above it and the quick release head doesn't fit. I would have to make an an adapter with a right angle fitting to use any pressure bleeder. The job I bought this for was bleeding the clutch system on an MGB. It seems that the British, who had this fella named Newton, as in Sir Isaac, who wrote just a bit about physics, including about GRAVITY, just didn't pay any attention to him. Nor did their engineers have any common sense. It is simple to design a clutch hydraulic system to self bleed. I have designed and installed three on cars that never had a hydraulic clutch and they all self bleed. But the designers at MG didn't seem to understand water runs downhill BEST. The point of this is that no adapter will fit this MC, and the universal cap, such as the: "ABN Universal Master Cylinder Adapter Cap with Wings - Adjustable 1-2.7in Opening Pressure Brake Bleeder Kit Adapter Fits Various Vehicles for Easy Brake Fluid Changes" neither fits, nor could I get it to seal properly on any of at least six master cylinders I tried it on. I believe some people have gotten that one or the Ares Universal Adapter to seal, so you, dear reader, might have better luck, but I couldn't get it to hold pressure at all. Therefore, if one of the screw on caps doesn't screw on tight and seal so you can pump up around 3-5 psi, you will have to do what I had to do on the MGB clutch MC. Take an old cap, or buy a new cap and modify it into an adapter with a small brass or plastic plumbing fitting and attach it directly into the silicone hose. This also may be better if the adapter costs far more than a cap, some silicone sealant and the plumbing fitting, or just won't seal as well. That applies to the adapter for a Miata MX-5 NA or NB master cylinder. I will be making an adapter from a used cap for future use as the adapter costs around $60. I would say it might make more sense to make your own if you have one of the American dual reservoir brake MC with the large oblong metal cap. The adapter that comes in the 12 piece SmotivePro or OMT kits appears to be just made of plastic and I suspect may not seal well. As to the MGB clutch. Even taking my time, it bled all the trapped air out of the lines run above the MC in British brilliance in under 10 minutes. This should be fantastic for bleeding brakes.

This has proven to be a very handy shop tool. One-Man hydraulic brake/clutch bleeding. Works on my Lexus GX470 and on my Mazda MX5. You will need to pick up an adapter for the Lexus (CMTOOL 43mm Brake Bleeder Adapter not included with this tool), but the accessory integrates well with this tool. Makes the job super easy.

I bought this brake bleeding tool and successfully did a brake fluid flush/bleed on 2 of my Honda (2010 Honda CRV & 2016 Honda Accord). However, the cap adapter is for European vehicles so I had to purchase an additional Honda adapter from the same manufacturer (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09SNNSLK7). This is my first time doing this job, but with some notes I took while watching a few Youtube videos, I was able to perform the job without any problem. I’m sharing my notes to help someone if you’re about to do this job for the first time. I knock off a star because the catch bottle needs some improvement. I had to drill a hole on the bottle's cap so fluid could travel down smoothly. The bottle's clear plastic tube was a little short. Also I wish the chain could be a little longer. Important Note: Overtime brake fluid will absorb water (hygroscopic) and become acidic. This will cause rust to hydraulic line from inside out. Therefore it’s recommended to do a brake fluid change every 3 years regardless of mileage. Brake fluid can cause serious eye injury. Be sure to wear safety glasses and gloves. Old brake fluid is acidic and it will “eat” paint & damage rubber parts. So clean it right away if there is a spill. The bleeder valve closest to the master cylinder reservoir will drain fluid the fastest. Make sure the master cylinder reservoir’s level is always above minimum level. Brake fluid has a short shelf life due to its nature to absorb air moisture & water. Don’t store brake fluid for long use. Once opened, the bottle can’t be used for next time. When done, wash adapter & catch bottle with soap water and let them air dry. Also flush plastic hose with soap water to get all brake fluid out (brake fluid will harden plastic over time and become brittle). Tools: 1- Three bottles of 12oz Genuine Honda Brake Fluid DOT 3 (if you’re extra carefully and want to stay on the safe side, get 4 bottles) 2- Turkey baster 3- Pressure bleeder kit 4- Towel/shop rags 5- 10mm deep socket & ratchet (some car use 8mm) 6- 10mm 6pt box wrench (again some car use 8mm and avoid using 12pt wrench) 7- Catch pan 8- Safety glasses 9- Latex gloves 10- Teflon tape (optional) 11- Thread sealant (optional) How to: 1. Wrap some Teflon tape around the rim of the pressure bleeder bottle (where you pour new fluid in) to create a good seal. 2. Test to make sure pressure bleeder holds vacuum by pumping to 10 psi & wait a few minutes. Clean around the brake master cylinder reservoir to prevent dirt fall into the master cylinder reservoir. 3. Cover areas around the master cylinder reservoir with rags to protect paint and rubber parts. Place car on jackstands and remove all 4 wheels. You don’t have to do this step but I find it’s easy to do the job without the wheels on. 4. Spray some penetrant on 4 bleeder valves & wait for 10-15 minutes for easy removal. Open the rubber boot from the bleeder. 5. With a deep socket, crack loose all 4 bleeder valves to make sure they can be opened easily before starting the bleeding process. 6. Remove the bleeder valves and apply some thread sealant onto the thread to prevent leak and to help making them easier to remove next time. 7. Use turkey baster to suck out most of the old brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with new brake fluid until full. 8. Pour the fluid in slowly to prevent bubbles to form inside the reservoir. 9. Place catch pan under the furthest wheel from the master cylinder reservoir to catch any excess fluid. Start with the furthest wheel and work your way to the closest. 10. Install Honda adapter. Put some brake fluid on the 2 O-rings for easy installation. 11. No need to add brake fluid into the bottle so less things to clean up. I just add more fluid into the master cylinder reservoir before I flush each bleeder valve. 12. Dry pump pressure bleeder to 10 psi, no more than 15 psi (10 psi is on the safe side of not having MC reservoir popped up or cracked). It takes about 26 pumps to get to 10 psi. 13. Place the close end of the box wrench on the bleeder valve. Bleeder screws are very easy to round off if use the open end of the wrench. 14. Install the plastic knob of the dirty fluid catch bottle to the bleeder valve. 15. Crack open the bleeder valve about ¼ turn. 16. When fluid in the catch bottle is about 2 inches, or the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir is down to MIN level, check and refill the master cylinder reservoir with new fluid. Then pump pressure back up to 10 psi. 17. When there is no more bubbles coming out and the fluid’s color in the tube is clear, tighten up the bleeder. 18. Put the rubber boot back on the bleeder valve. 19. Release pressure from the pressure bleeder tool (never release pressure at the master cylinder reservoir). 20. Refill master cylinder reservoir to Max level. 21. Repeat the process 3 more times for the remaining 3 wheels. 22. When done, give the brake pedal a couple nice hard pushes and hold for a few seconds to test for firmness. If the pedal doesn’t drop to the floor, it’s a successful bleeding job. If it is spongy, you have to re-do the bleeding process all over again. 23. Do a final check on all bleeder valves for any leak before re-install and torque all 4 wheels.

Showed up a day late. But easiest brake/clutch bleed of my life. No leaks. Just tighten all the connections. Don’t go crazy with pressure.

Used it dry (no fluid into the pump container, just to pressurize the car's reservoir ) to complete the job but there are some issues. 10psi for front, 12psi for rear wheels was sufficient. This seems to be an exact clone of Ares (or one is a supplier to the other) and is a better design than the Motive pressure bleeders from which the name of this company appears to have been derived! Positives: The plastics and hardware are good quality. The included cap fit the reservoir properly. The tube length from the pump to the car reservoir cap was long enough to keep the pump on the ground next to the car. You would need a suitable table or bench if using a four post lift to bleed without taking off wheels. The caveats: 1. The quick connect to the cap for the brake reservoir on the car is prone to leaking if the tube is moved or the cap is screwed and unscrewed several times as might be necessary in dry bleeding. Need to disconnect, and connect it back until it seals. The nut at the tube end of this connector is counter-intuitive. Tighten it first and then connect it again to the cap. 2. The first few pumps from zero pressure may make it look like it is not working. Pump it about 8-10 times before you see the pressure guage move. 3. The old fluid collector bottle is handy without purchasing it separately but you will need to punch a small hole near the top for air to escape as fluid pours into it. Otherwise, it will not work properly. 4. You do not need to push the tube all the way into the collection bottle just enough to insure it won't come out. Otherwise, the tube may become too short. 5. The bleeder connector for the collector bottle works best with exposed caliper nipples that are 1/4" or longer in front of the nut and have a sufficient lip over which the connecting rubber can extend so it stays connected. This was the case in my rear wheels. But the front wheels had a shallow nipple that wasn't long enough to hold the connector properly making it prone to coming off especially if the bottle placement puts pressure on the connector to disconnect. Best to hold this connector pushed in with your fingers while bleeding for such nipples. Seems like somebody should come up with a simpler design for dry bleeding that can be sold cheaper. You just need a hand pump with a pressure guage and a connector.