Spray Blaze Orange

One thing to consider though is if a small knick happens on your finished project, it usually leads to bigger chunks peeling back until you finally peel it all off. You may have to apply many multiple coats to prevent this...depending on the job.

If you know what plasti dip is you know what to expect with this product, however, under a black light, this color is absolutely gorgeous. I used it for my old PC Build and it looked better than i had hoped. Ill see if i can update this review with photos when i have more time if thats even possible.

Works just like it should. Not very durable against abrasions though. Once he gets punctured it's easy for it to become this large from the material you spray it on. It is not cheap I wish it was a little cheaper. Comes as a Hazmat item.

If your planning on covering black, cover your parts with white Plasti Dip first. I found the Blaze Orange didn't cover black well. So, I covered the parts with plain white Plasti Dip first. White covers black much better then the blaze orange by itself. Then applying the blaze orange on top of the white looked fantastic. I love the fact I can completely change the color of my motorcycle without permanently altering the original finish.

Using this to coat my tools at work and not dipping my car. If relevant, I bought my Miata freshly "dipped" using the black aerosol and when trying to peel it off 4mo later, it wasn't as easy as I see on videos at all. It's hardened and am still planning to sand it all off as if it were paint. Something might have gone awry in the prep. I sprayed my tools after a primer and they've all sat for a few days. I peeled it all off one test tool and it went really easy. It's a great bright matte orange, a shade brighter than Hugger Orange. I like using spray instead of dip when I want to tape off sections I don't want covered because dipping has just always been a mess and leaves sharp edges where I pull tape off or more than likely cut the areas I don't want covered off. The first coat is thin, the following coats I went thicker like the cans of dip and if you haven't sprayed plastidip, it's going to look like you screwed up if you did it correctly. The cover coats are correct if you lay it on thick and it's ugly and bumpy (I'll see if I can get an image of this ugliness soon). When you come back in 30min or so, it'll be smooth like flat paint but it's plastidipped. Since it can peel off and is a great feature of plastidipping, the edges will want some protection for tools IMO because you're using them and will start wanting to peel off unintentionally. Myself, I've tapped back from the plastidipped edge (1/8" or so) and painted the rest with common Rustolium Hammered finish. I've had good luck with that in the past and is now something I just do on tools. The paint makes a good transition OVER the Plastidip ends and doesn't start peel back on it's own from usage. There's pros about this for sure and they're all basic reasons to like PlastiDip in general. One neat thing I stumbled upon was for painting clear Lexan R/C bodies. Do all the detail work with Testers, do the main body color last with aerosol Plastidip here, peel and re-color your R/C in an hour (dry time before ready to run) any day you want. Don't like Blaze orange on your old T-Maxx? Peel it and go blue. With that said right to the... Cons: Price. Price can't be controlled and doing tools is fine. I just can't imaging covering a full automobile with this stuff. I've been a hobbiest painter for decades and basecoat for an entire car is about $150 in material, then for the matte look around $200 in matte clear (then the price of compressor and gun(s) of course), but I can't see one of these cans cover more than a door panel with all the coats I'd feel comfortable with. Ten cans ($150) just doesn't seem like it could even cover my little Miata. If the cool factor is that you can change colors every 6mo because you're bored then I see about $600yr just to change colors all the time. I guess I'm old and grumpy...get off my lawn ;) The clogs I did see but had zero issues with this order of orange cans at all. I'd come back for the next coat, it's clogged, I scrape my fingernail over the nozzle and it's back to spraying. All 6 cans clogged but all also cleared this easily as well. Scrape, scrape...back to dipping. I guess I'm use to that spraying thicker material and solvent shouldn't ever really touch or thin this material once gassed off and dry; It's not paint ya'll. That's the cool part. You could toss your dipped tool in thinner for days, come back, and it's still dipped. To be clear, I never saw the clogs on this order while using a single can constantly and only when I sat one down for a while. I for sure could spray for at least 5 minutes which is most of the can when your project is all pre-prepped and spraying it all at once. So I guess that's what I'd suggest: Plan a project that uses the full can and you shouldn't have a problem. If you've ever used expanding foam, same idea; Use it or lose it. Three stars because nothing is 5 stars unless it changes my life, nothing is 1 star unless it tries to kill me or a blunt advertising lie (Flex Seal), so 3 stars only because I find it expensive to have good ol' plastidip in a "convenient" spray can. On top of this, I wouldn't use rattle cans to dip a full vehicle at all, just parts. There's just better setups of dipping a car if you want to do it frequently compared to $2,500 to wrap it each time. I do expect the San Diego and thinner air'd Alpine sun to fade it to a shade of yellow-orange but zero opinion on that at this time. I still suggest buying it and trying it out to see if it works for you. Just keep in mind that this stuff is just not paint...it's rubber in a can. And no, it's not flex seal (I've been asked. Neat thought though, "the leak was at the bright orange section I covered with plastidip")