Delta Faucet R10000-UNBX MultiChoice Universal Tub and Shower Valve Body for Tub Faucet Trim Kits

Great replacement for my old valve body, which was limed up and allowed no flow from valve body to tub spout. A plumber was going to do the valve body replacement and leave me with a bathroom tile remodeling job. This replacement valve body is machined and manufactured a little differently than the original valve body from around 2007, and appears less prone to liming up that the original. Fortunately for me I never had to use the new valve body, and now have it as a spare part. I'll share this tip with anyone who might care, white vinegar is your friend. I got cold feet, and before turning the plumber loose I decided to try to open up the old valve. I removed the tub spout and shower head, plugged the tub outlet with a rubber stopper, and filled the shower line, valve body and cartride with white vinegar using a vinyl tube and funnel. I let this sit for about 5 days, removed the stopper, and now the valve body works like new. This was a LOT cheaper and easier than the plumbing and remodeling jobs I was looking at. I used ordinary white vinegar, the kind with nutrition information that you can use to make salad dressing. I didn't fool around with cleaning vinegar or anything stronger that might risk damaging plastic and/or rubber parts.

I was deep in my bathroom renovation last month and needed to replace the old tub/shower valve that kept leaking and mixing hot and cold wrong. Grabbed this universal valve body. The install was a breeze, about an hour with basic tools, and it fit right into the wall cutout without resizing pipes. Turned the water on, and no drips, plus the temperature stays steady now, no more scalding surprises. Been using it daily for weeks, and it's holding up solid. Simple fix that made the whole setup reliable again.

Original Delta is always better than aftermarket valve.

I'm not a plumber, and I really learned a lot through this experience. First off, if you're wondering why Delta, Moen, and the other name brands are so expensive, here's why: THEY HAVE REPLACEABLE PARTS. When your shower valve starts leaking (usually around 10 years old), you can buy a new valve core and have it working like new for ~40 bucks. This saves you from having to replace the valve, which saves you from destroying the tile/fiberglass around the valve. If you buy a cheap Chinese valve and shower hardware set, you have to pay to rebuild the whole shower when it fails. As a bonus, once this is installed you can restyle your bathroom with new shower hardware without doing any plumbing. This product works perfectly fine. It mixes the water temperature well, and the water doesn't get cold or hot in response to a toilet flush, etc. I did receive one with a tiny bit of damage: one of the barbs had been snapped off of the plastic mount. It probably would have worked fine, but I didn't want to risk it. Amazon quickly and cheerfully replaced it.

I’m an avid DIYer. I’ve installed two of these with no complications. The instruction was adequate. It worked as intended. The rough-in will fit a Peerless or a Delta cartridge.

I will install tomorrow. If you're converting from a two handle to this, get the Delta remodel plate ONLY. Moen's will not fit. Cost me $7+ to find this out. Delta's is plastic : ( Google "Single handle shower/tub valve recommendations for good flow rate" and click on the post on Terry Love's site. It has flow rates for this. The last post was flattering of this unit and has data you might like seeing. There are better flow rates available and I think American Standard was one of them. The shower head is a little difficult to "adjust" for better flow, but it can be done, or you can get one that is. I live next to a Superior lake and water is abundant. If water gets tough to find, I'll shower with baby wipes. The black plastic thing is the Plaster Ring and for a fiberglass stall, it should set against the backside of the wall, not flush with the surface. This is straight from Marcus at Delta customer service. My Plaster Ring was slightly broken with 2 of the four clips that hold it to the brass snapped off. Marcus said it was not a problem and offered to send a new one. I can't wait 7 days though. I just used some epoxy to hold it on. It's not structural and once mounted Marcus said many users throw it away. It serves only to aid in properly positioning of the unit. He said it provides some extra support to the valve when left on. There was a white thing included which is not described in the instructions. It was a couple of inches long, 1/2" diameter and had two o-rings on the end. Marcus said this is a leak check device. After hooking up the water lines, this thing is pushed into one of the holes inside the valve, then install the Test Cap and Bonnet. Turn the water on. If you plugged the cold side, hot water will flow out the tub spout. This will allow you to check for leaks on the cold side. Reverse the steps to check for leaks on the hot side. I really dislike plumbing, and I'm loathe to spend my Saturday ripping out the wall to do this work, but duty calls. I will update if I have further comments. Update 7/9/16 Took me all day and then some because of unexpected stuff and delays. The instructions are not perfect, but should be. There's no excuse for typos or missing steps. The info on installing the Valve Trim never said to install the Rotational Limit Stop. It said to install the Temperature Control Knob though. I eventually figured it out, but come on guys!! Then I could not get really hot water even with the Limit Stop full hot. The things we live with because of lawyers and lawsuits. I modded the Limit Stop to get hotter water. Not too tough to do using a hack saw blade. The flow rate without the cartridge installed was significantly higher. I used that white plug mentioned above to check for leaks and that's why I know the flow is higher without the cartridge. I'll live with that I guess. I didn't study the cartridge to see if it could be modded. I used female copper pipe thread adapters on the rough in valve. I sweated 1/2 copper to those before I put them on the valve. This will allow me to reuse the valve when I remodel the bathroom someday. If you do this too, wrap the male threads 3 times with teflon tape and put white TFE pipe compound on the threads too, I get good sealing using this approach. The biggest challenge I faced was the shower ell was not fastened to anything. When I removed the showerhead pipe and cut the vertical copper going to it, the 1/2 copper pipe dropped down and it was impossible to put it back where it was. I have no idea what the original installer was thinking or how we did it. I had to rip apart the wall above the fiberglass shower stall and mount the ell properly. Sigh...did I say I dislike plumbing? I like this unit and I'm glad I bought it. I recommend it to others. 10:30 PM and called it a day. It was nice to take shower again.

Muy resistente y buena calidad

Love this rough- in! Definitely has better flow than our old Moen valve body- most valve body rough ins aren’t built to accommodate high mineral hard water or older well pumps with lower pressure. This is the remedy- the cartridge we ordered was also great- no problems in 5 months- best flow this 40 year old home has ever had! Looks like this design should have fewer build up problems in my opinion and It can be modified to increase flow in the future if your situation were to require it( YouTube videos)

Product is exactly as advertised and very competitive prices.

Producto muy bien diseñado, tuve que devolverlo, no por algún defecto, si no que fue el equivocado.

Fits great